9b in Rodellar November 14, 2007
- Bouldering
- First ascent
- Rock climbing
The gorge of Rodellar is home to many amazing places to climb, but the cave of Alí Babá has to be one of the most incredible roofs in Europe. It's huge, like an upside-down dance floor, suspended just a few metres above the ground.
The climbs here are like long boulder problems, requiring both power and endurance. None is easy, and some are very, very hard.
The latest route (9b) is a further extension of Ali Hulk (sit-start), which I completed in summer 2006. This is 9a+, involving powerful 7c bouldering, followed by continuous 8c roof climbing, totalling 25 metres in all. The 9b takes the same lower part, but with a logical extension, which adds 8 metres of 8b+ endurance climbing at the end. The only rest is a painful knee-bar about half way up, although some people find it impossible to use.
The first section of the route is very close to the ground and just needs crashpads for protection, but you have to wear a harness and rope because the upper part gets pretty high. There are 8 bolts in total, though I myself only clipped the last 3.
I've send the route last week. This style of climbing (the combination of bouldering, then endurance) is not new - think of Akira (Eaux Claires), but is still unusual, and obviously requires a very high level of strength in both disciplines.
Working the route - Photo Pete O'Donovan
Eso es!!
Félicidades Dani.
Congratilation you are a "Machine"
How long does it take you to do this route?
Did you bolted it also?
Cuidate,
You know that you have an other project with me!!
jesus, bet you had to bring the big bicep out for that!!!
Wow, very nice to hear this, good job!
Will there be a Video of this ascent?
I just watched Dave Graham's try of Ali Hulk on youtube and would love to see more of this :>
Hi, Dani
Budi from Indonesia, I want share about your experience your climbing. When your come my country?
Regard,
Budi-Indonesia
bueno decirle que admiro su manera de escalar , bueno yo tambn lo practico y mucho mas boulders que vias pero en vias no me va mal me gustaria que vinieras a chile a escalar con amigos te mostrariamos rutas relmente entretenidas y durisimas ven a chile que tambien es un pais de roca bueno cuidate mucho y sigue progresando un abraso y chauuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
Hay Dani,
I was just wondering if you had any climbing films done covering you assents in Rodellar. I'm trying to expand my collection of climbing movies, and I am a real fan of your climbing style. Keep up the sick climbing.
Josh-USA
To jest niemożliwe co wyprawia ten człowiek na Rodellar ... oglądałem ten filmik około 50 razy i za kazdym razem sie zastanawiam jak to jest molziwe ;) CONGRATULATION !!! Dani
A MUERTE!
the ranking of the routes is really not correct. that's 9a not 9b. because when you take a 7c boulder you add to it 8c, you get a low 8c+ , then you add the 8b+ to it, it becomes a low 9a. so 9a is really good as a grade. 9a+ is still probably acceptable, but not 9b. why 9b?
To SirMarc->> And what about the rests, the kind of climbing, and lots of other nuances?? That's not maths, Marc. I think that routes cannot be calculated as an equation. So that your reasoning isn't correct. When you climb that route you'll can say so hard opinions about it. Ok?